Heʻe Nalu

For ancient Hawaiians, surfing was more than sport. It was and remains a spiritual connection to the sea, the deities of Mother Earth; a ceremony of reverence and gratitude.

Surfboards themselves were both sacred and tied to rigid social hierarchy; carved with intention selecting specific types of native wood such as koa or wiliwili, were carefully chosen as per the stature and rank of the person who used them.

Before entering the water, surfers would perform chants and offer prayers to Kanaloa, the Hawaiian god of the oceanseeking his blessings for safety and success in navigating the powerful currents and swells. This remains today a ritual of earnest spiritual invocation of protection and guidance.

In many surfing communities today offerings of flowers, plants, herbs, and other treasures of the earth are brought out to the line up or more often in a memorial paddle out and placed on the surface of the water as a gift of gratitude and sanctuary for the ocean and her power.

Beyond a thrilling and an athletically challenging sport, ancient Hawaiian surfing traditions were born from an intimate relationship with the ocean, guided by its rhythms and moods. Surfing itself was a reflection of the deep respect and connection Hawaiians held for their environment.

The next time you paddle out or gaze out at the surfers on the horizon, imagine a rich tradition grounded in strength and guided by divine spirit, an offering of respect and admiration for world we are intricately a part of. Ritual.

Until next time, Mahalo, Namaste 🙏

KVO